Hundstodkenlkopf Couloirs

I completed a long-standing project of mine in a back corner of the Wimbachgries (Wimbach drainage) at the end of March: linking the left and central couloirs of the Hundstodkenlkopf north face.  I wanted to climb up the left couloir, traverse over to the Hundstodkenlkopf peak, down climb and rappel into the central couloir and ski the remainder of the decent.

I wrote about an earlier attempt at this link-up http://www.austrianalpine.com/2010/01/tale-of-two-couloirs.html

All the factors alined themselves at the end of March this year: conditions, time, motivation and the proper frame of mind.

The approach to the entrance of the left couloir is 1000 meters of elevation gain and about 9 kilometers.  There is an additional 200 meters of steep switchbacks before the actual climbing begins.

looking down the first couloir after putting on my crampons

At about 1800 meters, there is a short ice section (WI3) that leads to easy mixed terrain.  It was fun and relatively easy to climb as the snow and ice conditions were very good.

Looking up into the first ice section and mixed terrain

Climber's eye view at the top of the ice section

Getting into the narrowest part of the couloir was cramped with the skis on my pack.  Nevertheless I felt secure and didn't need to set up any kind of self-belay system.

100 meters above the ice and mixed terrain

After climbing the ice and mixed ground the couloir was filled with steep hard snow for 250 meters or so.  The next ice step was easy.  This led to a relatively flatter section of thirty-five to forty degrees which ended at an easy mixed ramp.

The exit ramp and sunshine is somewhere up there

I exited the first couloir at about 11:00.  It was the first sunshine of the day.  To This point I needed six and one-half hours to cover the ca. 1200 meters of skinning and 350 meters of climbing.

The view back into the left couloir from around 2200 meters

After getting out of the first couloir, there was 200 meters or so of skinning up to he Hundstodkenlkopf peak. The snow was 10cm of cold powder on a crust which made the last bit to the top quite tedious.

The next part of the link-up was the crux: finding the right entrance into the central couloir.  I had been in the central couloir on two previous occasions.  The second time I was in the central couloir I had gone up as far as possible with skis and then made the first ski descent two seasons prior.

Looking down into the 800 meter central couloir

At just under the Hundstodkenlkopf peak, I chose to down climb a snow ramp that transformed into a steep gully.  The conditions in the gully system were nerve-wracking; cold powder on friable, loose rock.

Just before my first rappel, after down climbing into the gully

Almost to the point of putting on my skis

By a combination of down climbing and rappelling I could eventually get to a point were I could put on my skis and start skiing down.  Despite not seeing any evidence of instability, I was nervous and just wanted to ski down safely and securely.  I didn't take any more photos because I didn't want to take any more time than absolutely necessary.

The ski descent went really well.  The snow pack was very stable and actually great to ski.  The pictures are from my first time in the couloir and give an accurate impression of the descent's ambiance.

About half way through the descent

Just before exiting the central couloir

Looking back after exiting the central couloir

Skiing out of the drainage was fast and pleasant.  I could get to about 750 meters before the snow ran out and I had to put my skis over my shoulder for the remainder of the walk out.

Details:

Hundstodkenlkopf North Face, Left & Central Couloir Enchainment

J. Fratianni, solo, 23 March 2012

Total elevation gain ca. 1800 meters, start 600m - peak 2396m

Left Couloir: WI3 & easy mixed, 60-70 degrees, 500m

Central Couloir: down climb & rappel ca. 150 meters, ski descent, ca. 50 degrees

Time estimates: 7.5 hours to peak, 3 hours descent and ski out

Alternative: 1) Ski descent by "Hundstodrieb" ski tour over Lofererseilergraben or Leogangerseilergraben, 2) "Hundstodrieb" in opposite direction over Trischübl-Alm & Wimbachgries-Hütte

Outdoor Kletterkurse / Climbing Courses 2012

There is a new structure to the outdoor climbing program through the Salzburg Climbing Gym (Kletterhalle Salzburg) / denkundstein.  We have created a 4 level structure that will be more appealing to clients and better fit individual needs. 

Level 1 focuses on climbing technique on real rock.  Level 2 addresses all the nessary rope technique and saftey issues when climbing at a single-pitch sport climbing crag.  Level 3 covers rope management and safety for climbing multi-pitch bolted sport routes.  For more information or to register for a course, contact the Kletterhalle or me directly at joefratianni@hotmail.com.

I

Termine:
Sa, 19. Mai 2012, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr; Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 9.45 Uhr
Mi, 30. Mai+Do, 31. Mai 2012, 17.00 - 20.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 16.45 Uhr
Di, 19. Juni+Do, 20. Juni 2012, 17.00 - 20.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 16.45 Uhr
Sa, 7. Juli, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 9.45 Uhr
Sa, 21. Juli, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 9.45 Uhr
 
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

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Termine:
So, 20. Mai, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Eingangshalle Rif um 9.45 Uhr
Di, 12. Juni+Mi, 13. Juni, 17.00 - 20.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Eingangshalle Rif um 16.45 Uhr
So, 8. Juli, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Eingangshalle Rif um 9.45 Uhr
 
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

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Termine:
Sa, 16. Juni 2012, 9.00 - 17.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg- Parkplatz Zistelalm um 8.45 Uhr
So, 17. Juni 2012, 9.00 - 17.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg- Parkplatz Zistelalm um 8.45 Uhr
So, 22. Juli 2012, 9.00 - 17.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg- Parkplatz Zistelalm um 8.45 Uhr
 
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

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Termine:
Nach Absprache
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

March Training Record

I have kept records of my training activities for a number of years.  I have a day-to-day plan and logs to record what I do, time, elevation gain, intensity, volume, etc.  I also record my resting pulse rate, sleep quality & amount, weight & body fat and mood..

March Totals

74.5 hours of training time (actual)

24 training sessions

3 full rest days / 5 long work days without training (<10 hours)

14,878 meters of elevation gain

weight = 71kg., body fat = 11%, body mass index = 21.91, resting heart rate = 44

My training generally falls into two areas: endurance training and sport specific skill training.  Endurance activities in March were hiking carrying weight, mountain trail running, alpine routes and ski touring.  For sport specific skill training was made up of alpine skiing, indoor climbing, bouldering, outdoor sport climbing, fingerboard sessions and supplemental exercise (movement, mobility & flexibility, strength/power).

Apelscharte Couloir

On a very cold Monday in February I went into the Wimbachgries (Wimbach drainage) and climbed an alpine ice route on the right side of the valley under the Apelscharte.  Other than the cold, the ice and snow conditions were excellent.  The Apelscharte Couloir has ice sections to WI4, steep snow & easy mixed terrain at about 350 meters in elevation difference.

The most attractive feature of the climb was the 50 meter compact ice fall in the middle of the couloir.  Before getting to this spot, there was about 150 meters of snow and easy ice.  Despite the very low temperatures, the ice was in great condition for climbing and felt very secure.

 Looking up from about 15 meters into the pitch.  Cold, steep, compact ice.  I climbed the route in my Dynafit TLT 5 Performance boots and Black Diamond Cyborgs set up as Mono-points.  The climb was a test to see how well the boots would work in moderate alpine terrain   I used my trusted, and well loved, Black Diamond Cobras.

The TLT's are incredibly light - they weigh less than most standard winter alpine boots.  A number of climbers in Chamonix have used them to do some very impressive climbs and link-ups.

Balanced on my front points and looking down from the top of the central ice pitch. I took two 30-meter twin ropes with me.  I normally trail the ropes behind me on steep and more technical terrain.  In this way I can set up a self-belay or retreat quickly without complications.

This is in the easier ice runnel looking up towards the exit of the couloir.  I have set an ice screw to self-belay while I rest and take a photo.  My ice tools are attached to my harness with a Black Diamond Spinner leash.

I had four ice screws, a couple of pitons (baby angle & knife blade), two 120cm slings, one 60cm sling, three quick draws (2 normal & one 60cm sling rigged as a quick draw), 3 locking carabineers and pieces of accessory cord.

The exit to the Apelscharte was snow with some easy mixed terrain.  I down climbed and rappelled the descent back to my skis.  On the descent, I was surprised by how steep the couloir was, because while climbing I didn't have the same feeling of exposure.

The ski out was some nice powder turns, and then the long cruise out of the low angled part of the drainage and onto the forest road.  It was cold!  I couldn't ski too fast, and had to make some stops, to warm up and keep from getting a cold induced headache.  My feet felt like two wooden blocks by the time I got back to the parking lot.

The approach to the couloir is 950 or so meters of elevation gain and is long (maybe 6-7 km).  You take the right hand side of the drainage, heading towards the Loferer Seilergraben.  It's a good 2.5-3 hours before you can turn into the couloir entrance at about 1450 meters.  There were some amazingly impressive avalanche run outs from the flanks and cliffs of the right hand slopes when heading into the valley.  Take care when skinning in that you stay well left of the right hand flanks.

Training Thoughts

Do you know why you train? Have you ever defined your goals, precisely? True fitness, which is different from the appearance of fitness, generally comes down to the power plant. Do you need a big and pretty engine, a powerful engine, or perhaps a big gas tank? The answer depends entirely on the objective.
... ...

If success depends on measured distribution of effort, efficient fuel assimilation and expenditure, and on the certainty that pressing the pedal five hours into it will cause the engine to respond with something better than a cough, then it's the capacity of the tank rather than the size or appearance of the engine that matters. Long endurance efforts universally require one to carry his/her engine so power-to-weight ratio is equally important: increase power and endurance without gaining size or compromising oxygen efficiency." 

The above excerpt is from the Gym Jones site.  It was written in regards to cycling, but could just as easily be applied to alpine climbing.

An alpine objective usually involves an approach of low-level endurance, start and stop efforts when climbing a route - at times with brief maximum efforts - and again low-level endurance energy expenditure during the descent.  This is usually done carrying weight.  In some situations, you have to additionally deal with less than normal sleep and eating habits and amounts.

If this is what you are training for, how do you do it?

you need to 1) create a large gas tank, 2) use body fat stores as fuel, 3) maximize strength-to-weight ratio in body composition (in other words be as strong and powerful as possible at the lowest weight).

Sport -specific skill training should be separated from physical training such as endurance, strength, power, etc.

If we look at rock climbing as an element of the alpine mix we can divide training for this into skill focused or physical focused.  (There is of course some overlap, but the point is the intent or priority of the training)

Rock climbing skill list (partial):

reading rock

placing protection

finding & utilizing rests

precise use of feet

using momentum generated from legs

high stepping

turning & flagging

down climbing

climbing on-sight

etc.

Rock climbing physical list (partial):

continuous up/down climbing for <30 minutes

interval training, 1:1 ratio of lap climbing with rest period

maximum effort on route with full recovery between repetitions

fingerboard training

4X4 bouldering

linking 4-6 moves at maximum effort

speed climbing intervals

etc.

An alpinist should be focused on skills that will make him/her more efficient and faster.  Physical training should be made up mostly of endurance-level efforts.

Again, looking just at rock climbing, an alpinist should improve their ability in rope handling, placing protection and on-sight climbing to cite just three skill elements.  Physically focused training for rock should rely heavily on continuous up/down climbing of up to 60 minutes, interval training at around 80% maximum effort (12-15 laps) and speed climbing intervals.

The above is only really scratching the surface of one facet that makes up an alpinist.  There are also the abilities in ice, snow, mixed terrain, skiing, etc.  Additionally, just off the top of my head, the areas nutrition, mental strength and equipment are critically important.

This is what makes alpinism a totally engaging life-long pursuit.  And perhaps why some of us have a chip on our shoulders about specialists active in only one of the various disciplines that make up the complete alpine picture.